Birding Tikal & Lake Atitlan

We have been in Guatemala for about 10 days and the birding has been fairly slow mainly because we haven’t been able to find a local guide. We reached out to several online but none came back to us. At Tikal we added about 10 new birds over two full days but it was frustrating because with our limited local knowledge we let so many go without an identification we could be sure of. We did add a Northern Potoo though which was a real highlight.

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But out luck changed when moving to Lake Atitlan as we found a great guide called Alfredo (WhatsApp +502 3145 7601, tolgonzalezalfredo@yahoo.com) from Birding Atitlan Expeditions. Another great guide, very hardworking and skilled. The fact that nearly two months into our trip we were able to add over 50 lifers in two mornings was totally down to his skill and dedication. We had early starts which meant we could add some night birds too which were great.

As is often the way the photos which follow do not do justice to the birding we experienced. This is often the way photography and birding are really separate mutually exclusive disciplines. If you want to get good photos take an hour or two out to focus on one bird. If you want to add to your life list you keep moving and focus on seeing and experiencing the birds which can come thick and fast.

Most of our birding from Lake Atitlan was around Mirador Rey Tepepul and this really was a great habitat (although sadly there was quite a lot of evidence of illegal logging activity) with different birds at different altitudes.

On our first morning we saw the Mexican Whip-poor-will from the car and stopped and had great views as it flew around us. We then spent about 4 hours walking the Hummingbird Trail and funny enough saw plenty (9 species) of Hummingbirds – Rivoli’s, Sparkling-tailed, Ruby-throated, Wine-throated, White-eared, Emerald-chinned, Green-throated Mountain-gem, Rufous and Violet Saberwings.

However for me the two highlights were seeing the stunning Resplendent Quetzal (national bird of Guatemala) and the wonderful Fulvous Owl. For the first we climbed into the cloud forest and before we saw the Quetzal we heard it (well Alfredo did). But once he pointed it out we were reminded of the clapping at Mayan Temples where the echo is likened to the Quetzal call. The bird itself was stunning in full breeding plumage with a crazy long tail. I was too busy gawping and enjoying the experience to get a photo to share. The owl provided longer more sustained views from a perch with enabled me to get some great shots of this large owl.

Altogether we saw 69 species of which 31 were lifers for me.

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On our second day we also made an early start and stopped hoping to see the Whiskered Screech Owl. We didn’t see it but we did hear it. However like a great supermarket special offer this was buy one get two free. We did see well (albeit low light) the Great Horned Owl and also two Lesser-Nighthawks.

Returning to the Mirador we took the lower trail hoping to see a different range of birds. In a couple of hours two new hummingbirds (Black-crested Coquette and Blue-tailed Hummingbird), Pacific Parakeet, Ruddy Foliage-gleaner, Cabanis’s Wren, Blue-crowned Chlorophonia, Azure-rumped Tanager and more were added to the list. It was a real pleasure being in this habitat but I was once again saddened to hear a distant chainsaw. How long will this forest be here if it is not more effectively protected?

It was time to head back to the boat but we stopped off by the Lake itself for a chance of some lowland birds. We had great views of birds we had seen before including Osprey and Grey Hawk. But we also added Grey-crowned Yellow-throat, Spot-breasted Oriole, Eastern Bluebird and the charming White-faced Ground-sparrow to our life lists.

So far in Guatemala we have seen 171 species of which 60 have been lifers. The trip total stands at 388 on our way to 1,000.